An Lam Ninh Van Bay: a boat-access hideaway on Vietnam’s south-central coast

Photo: Phan Cuong / Pexels

Fifteen minutes by boat from Nha Trang, on a secluded peninsula of jungle and boulders, a homegrown Vietnamese brand has created 37 villas, most with their own infinity pool, and a stay shaped by its garden, its stream and the sea.

The setting

There is no road to An Lam. The resort sits on a secluded peninsula in Ninh Van Bay, a 15-minute boat ride from Nha Trang, and that short crossing sets the tone. Behind the city’s high-rise beachfront, the bay feels like another country: golden sand, clear water, forested hills and granite boulders tumbling into the sea.

The resort describes itself as a hideaway of “understated luxury—simple yet elegant”, with a natural stream running through the grounds. Its 37 villas sit among the vegetation, some at the water’s edge and others higher up for the views. Condé Nast Traveler summed up the appeal as “dramatic views over Vietnam’s Ninh Van Bay from open-air, thatched-roof villas”.

The brand behind it is Vietnamese. An Lam Retreats was founded by Cao Thi Bao Tram and Tran Duc Lam as a homegrown luxury brand, and its sister property, An Lam Saigon River, sits on the Saigon River.

“dramatic views over Vietnam’s Ninh Van Bay from open-air, thatched-roof villas”

The rooms & villas

All 37 villas have one, two or three bedrooms, and most have private infinity pools set among the trees. The resort says the design is efficient and contemporary, using eco-friendly materials and locally handmade textiles to create light-filled spaces that nod to Vietnam’s heritage.

Private pool villas have an outdoor terrace, a plunge pool and living areas, and some sit right at the water’s edge. For families or friends travelling together, the multi-bedroom beachfront villas have panoramic views of the bay, spacious living and dining areas, a large infinity pool and an expansive deck.

Eat & drink

Much of what appears on the plate is grown on site. The resort’s organic garden is fed with compost made from kitchen waste, eggs come from its own chicken farm nearby, and other produce is sourced from local suppliers to cut transport and preservatives. Drinking water comes from the resort’s own system and is served in reusable glass bottles. The resort frames all of this as “regeneration”, with initiatives spanning energy efficiency, a no-plastic policy, water and waste management, social commitment and nature protection, and it invites guests to take part.

Sen Restaurant is perched atop a dramatic rock formation, with indoor and outdoor seating and views across the bay. Its farm-to-table menu features fresh local seafood and home-grown produce, with local and international dishes. It serves breakfast and dinner. Next door, Sen Deck serves cocktails and snacks from the afternoon into the evening, for a pre-dinner aperitif or a nightcap.

Down on the sand, a beachfront bistro and café serves Vietnamese-inspired dishes and Western comfort food by day, and becomes a seafood barbecue on select evenings. The Beach Bar & Deck has panoramic ocean views for a sundowner. In-villa dining, with dishes from all the restaurants, runs from breakfast until evening.

Wellness

Jungle Spa is tucked into lush tropical landscape and combines treatments rooted in local tradition with Western-inspired techniques. The signature massage draws on traditional Vietnamese practices, with pressure-point and palm-pressure techniques and long, sweeping strokes. A traditional Vietnamese oil massage incorporates warm cupping and acupressure. A treatment uses the famous mud from Nha Trang’s mud baths, and a refreshing facial is made with fresh watermelon, cucumber, oatmeal, yoghurt, honey and sesame.

Hand and nail treatments complete the menu. Beyond the treatment rooms, the wellness program includes yoga and sound healing, a Sun Salutation session with panoramic views of the bay, sunset yoga on the beach, and meditation by the natural stream, where the sounds of the forest do half the work.

Beyond the resort

The experiences make the most of the peninsula. Guests can hike to An Lam Point for a sweeping view of the bay, or settle in for a barbecue lunch beside An Lam Stream. Couples can book bespoke spa rituals and sunset yoga, while children have activities designed just for them. Families can visit the organic garden and learn to make traditional Vietnamese dishes with freshly picked vegetables. At golden hour, a wooden boat sets sail across the bay for the sunset.

Out on the water, there is island-hopping to an inhabited island, a visit to a local fish farm followed by the freshest seafood, water sports, and scuba diving and snorkelling over coral reefs when the visibility is at its best. Nha Trang itself, with its markets, restaurants and the famous mud baths, is a short boat ride away.

When to go

Nha Trang follows a different rhythm from much of Vietnam. Its dry season runs from roughly January to August, and these months generally bring the calmest seas for snorkelling and diving. The rainy season falls from about September to December, when storms can bring rough seas and make the boat crossing less comfortable. At those times, the Jungle Spa, the stream and a long lunch in a villa come into their own. The resort suggests the drier, sunnier months for sailing and hiking, and the slightly cooler ones for morning yoga and dinners under the stars. Tet, the Lunar New Year in late January or February, is a festive time across Vietnam, but it is also one of the busiest travel periods, so plan ahead.

Who it’s for

An Lam suits travellers who want seclusion without hardship: honeymooners and couples drawn to private pool villas and sunset sails, and families who want space, garden activities and multi-bedroom villas on the beach. Guests who care about provenance will appreciate the garden, the glass bottles and the no-plastic policy.

It is a retreat in the true sense. With boat-only access, it is not a base for nightlife or for exploring Nha Trang every day, and the resort’s restaurants are the main dining options during a stay. Some will find that the best part.

This guide was researched independently from published sources; Cosmopolitan Courier was not compensated.